Thailand is a popular destination nowadays for those looking for the sunny side of life as well as value for money in property and lifestyle necessities. Expat communities and western-style facilities with a Thai twist are found in Bangkok, the southern coastal resorts and islands and in the northern city of Chiang Mai, the historic former capital of the Lanna kingdom.
Overview
This fascinating country is divided into five regions, all with their own unique style and ambience. Central Thailand is home to the buzzing capital of Bangkok, famed for its nightlife, shopping, canals, markets and cosmopolitan vibes, and the UNESCO-listed town of Ayutthaya is famous for its time as old Siam’s capital. In complete contrast, the northeastern Isaan region is a journey back in time to Thailand’s traditional rural lifestyle with its small villages, magnificent Khmer ruins and delicious food.
For beach-lovers and water-sport aficionados, eastern Thailand to the south of Bangkok along the Andaman Sea coast is the place to put down roots, with the resort of Hua Hin home to the summer palace of the Thai royal family. Pattaya is known for its outrageous nightlife, and its surrounding small towns and even smaller villages are perfect for retirees and families. Southern Thailand boasts lush rainforests, endless offshore islands and some of the country’s most famous resort areas including Phuket, Krabi, Koh Tao and Koh Samui.
Northern Thailand has its own definitive culture and wasn’t a part of Thailand proper until early in the 20th century. Chiang Mai, its ancient capital, boasts a walled and moated Old Town, hundreds of Buddhist temples, several international schools and good hospitals, and the smaller city of Chiang Rai lies in the heart of the notorious Golden Triangle close to Chiang Saen, another ancient regional capital.
Population
Thailand’s population of just under 67 million is mostly Thai or Thai-Chinese, with a sprinkling of ethnic tribes from southern China and as far away as Tibet such as the Lisu, Karen, Tha Yai, Shan and other hill tribes living mostly in Northern Thailand. Over 14 million people live in the Bangkok Metropolitan Region, with Chiang Mai, Thailand’s fifth-largest city, home to a million residents in its metropolitan region. The official language of the country is Thai, although Northern Thai is widely spoken in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and across the northern region, the Isaan people use the Lao dialect and Southern Thai is spoken along the Andaman seacoast and on the island
History
Thailand is an ancient land with traces of agricultural and nomadic human settlement as long ago as the Stone Age. However, it wasn’t until the 9thcentury rise of the incredibly powerful Khmer Empire, based in present-day Cambodia, that most of Thailand first came under the control of a single empire. After the long fall of the Khmer Empire began in the early 13th century, the Buddhist kingdom of Sukothai rose to prominence, dwarfing the Mon state of Haripunchai at Lamphun as well as Lanna and the Chiang Saen city-state in the north of the country. Sukothai’s dominance, however, only lasted for a century, with Ayutthaya on the southern reaches of the Chao Phraya river established by the mid 14th century.
Burmese incursions into Thailand began in the north in 1558, and continued for 200 years, during which time armies from still-powerful Ayutthaya invaded Angkor in 1431, causing a final retreat by Khmer forces. By the 16th century Ayutthaya was a major Asian trading hub serving Chinese, Portuguese, Indian, Persian, Arabian and European merchants. The city was invaded by Burmese forces in 1767, but Burma’s colonial aspirations were quashed by a combination of city-state armies from the north combined with forces loyal to the southern King Taksin operating out of Thonburi, thus beginning the slow process of Siam’s development into modern-day Thailand
As a result, the independent northern Lanna kingdom and its neighbouring city-states became vassals of Thonburi and Bangkok, finally becoming a reluctant part of Thailand in the early 20th century when a constitutional monarchy was established and the country changed its name from Siam to Thailand. The country’s present monarch is King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the ninth successive ruler of the Chakri Dynasty first established in 1782 with the coronation of King Phra Yot Fa, a former key general under King Taksin.
Food
Thai cuisine is known worldwide for its spicy, flavourful variety, although most Thai restaurants outside the kingdom serve a fusion version more suited to Western palates. For the real deal and a second-to-none culinary experience, visitors and expat residents in the country are offered a huge variety of delicious dining experiences in everything from upscale restaurants through local eateries to food courts and street food stalls.
Thai gastronomy is itself a fusion of Southeast Asian culinary traditions enlivened with regional variations. Each recipe juggles diverse ingredients in order to create a harmonious treat for the taste buds, utilising fresh produce, spices, herbs, coconut milk, meats and seafood. Regional variations roughly cover the Lanna north, Isaan, Central Thailand and the south, showing Burmese, Laotian and Yunnan influences in the north and northwest, Malaysian influence in the south and Cambodian and Vietnamese influence in the eastern provinces.
In addition, Thai Royal cuisine, mainly found in upscale dining haunts in and around the capital, traces its culinary heritage back to the Ayutthaya era and influenced much of Central Thailand’s cuisine. Western influences sneaked in from the 17th century onwards, although even gourmets would find it difficult to recognise them nowadays, and Chinese influence over hundreds of years has produced dishes such as fried rice noodles and stewed pork with rice. Another example is the delicious Massaman Curry, imported and adapted from its Persian original.
The popularity of Thai food worldwide came as a result of the kingdom’s 50 years area hub for tourists and the arrival of hordes of US troops during the Vietnam war. It’s now the sixth most popular cuisine in the world, and often one of the reasons the country is becoming a hub for expats from the West. Traditionally, meals were, and still are in remote rural destinations, eaten seated on the floor with dishes displayed on a cloth or small, low table set in front of the diners.
Nowadays, a spoon and fork are used, an innovation brought in by the 19th century King Chulalongkorn after one of his many visits to the West. A selection of sauces and extra spices is served with most meals, and cucumber slices are eaten to cool the effect of red-hot spicy dishes. Dessert, if served at all, is fresh fruit, ice cream or, in the mango season, fragrant, sliced mangoes accompanied by boiled sticky rice smothered in coconut cream. Vegetarians and those who just can’t take spicy food will never go hungry in Thailand as veggie and international eateries are now common in most cities and, for food on the run, the ubiquitous western-style fast food joints are everywhere.
Culture
As with its cuisine Thai culture varies region to region, but has its heart in Theravada Buddhism and love of the monarchy and the king as the father of the nation. It has to be said that, for incomers from the West, many aspects of Thai culture can remain a mystery, but this journey into the unknown can be fascinating. The famous ‘Land of Smiles’ soundbite may be one of the most successful in advertising history, but the various versions of the Thai smile covers everything from genuine pleasure to utter devastation. Even when announcing the death of a close relative, Thais do so with a smile!
Indigenous culture includes influences from ancient Cambodia, India, China and prehistoric Southeast Asia, and is firmly based in the family. Thewai is performed at all meetings between people, although incomers will find its subtleties of value of scale extremely complicated. Shoes are not worn inside homes, many shops and all temples, and the feet, (the most unclean part of the body, must not point to anyone or to any Buddhist image or altar. Similarly, the head is not touched, and women are forbidden to touch members of the Buddhist monkhood.
Hierarchy is very important here, and is also a tricky nettle to grasp for incomers as it’s linked with the universal Asian concept of ‘face’. Conflict and displayed anger are considered extremely offensive, and positive social interactions will result in friends. The much-used phrase, ‘mai bpen rai’, roughly translated as ‘it doesn’t matter’ calms down disagreements and ensures no-one loses face. Incomers must note that speaking or writing disrespectfully about the King or other members of the Royal Family is a serious offence incurring a long prison sentence.
Transport
As with most other provisions in Thailand, transport varies according to the region, with Bangkok the top of the list for its convenient public transport options. Although the capital’s roads are crowded all day and most of the night, it boasts a Skytrain, an underground MRT train system and the elevated rail link with Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Bus travel involves heavy traffic, as does taxi travel, and overground rail links to other major cities radiate out from the central rail station.
Thailand’s domestic flights cover most larger cities and tourist destinations, with the exception of Pattaya, and flights with the several low-cost airlines are the best option for getting around as rail services are slow and buses take time to travel the distances involved. Travel by road can be risky, as driving standards here are variable at best, and destinations in the north and northeast or the far south can involve overnight travel on less-than perfect roads.
The most convenient and least expensive travel options in regional cities and towns are the ubiquitous tuk-tuk taxis and songthaew buses. Tuk-tuks travel to passengers’ exact destinations, and songthaews normally have fixed charges for fixed routes, although you’ll need to know exactly where to get off. Motorcycle taxis are found in many cities, giving an exhilarating if risky ride for little money.
Long-distance luxury coaches run from distant cities such as Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Khon Kaen and the southern resorts at reasonable fares, but journeys take eight to ten hours or more.
Weather and Climate
Thailand’s climate is basically tropical with two seasons, the dry season running from November through to April and the rainy season lasting for the remainder of the year. Humidity in general is high for most of the year. Arriving during the cooler dry season from November to February is good for getting used to and tolerating the higher temperatures and humidity between March and October.
The dry season is the most pleasant, with daytime highs of around 30°C and nighttime lows allowing comfortable sleep, although the last two months before the rains begin see daytime temperatures of up to 40°C with high humidity. In the northern hills, daytime temperatures average around 19°C, dropping sharply at night to 10°C or even lower, with frost on the highest hillsides. The rainy season begins with magnificent thunderstorms in late April or early May, with subsequent rains mainly occurring in the evening in most regions. Tropical downpours can be spectacular, and flooding is a risk in low-lying areas.
International Schools
For families moving to Thailand, the proximity of international-level schools with English-language curriculums is an important factor, as Thai public schools fall well below western standards and rarely give classes in English. Bangkok has the best selection, followed by Chiang Mai. The majority of international schools follow a modified English language programme covering exams up to IGCSE and A level and including entrance exams for several universities.
For Bangkok, Patana School, Shrewsbury International School and Harrow International School are good choices, and Pattaya’s Regent’s School is based on the ideals of Kurt Hahn, the highly-respected German educationalist. All international schools cover kindergarten, primary and secondary education, although few, including Bangkok’s KIS International School, give the option of the International Baccalaureate examination.
In the north Chiang Mai International School heads the pack for its secular. US-style education and high standards, and smaller Lanna International School follows the British curriculum. Prem Tinsulanonda International School offers the International Baccalaureate, but is located far from many residential areas favoured by incomers. Phuket is home to the British International School, and all these centres of education are expensive.
Family Attractions
Although as yet Thailand hasn’t succumbed to its own version of Walt Disney World, there are plenty of family attractions to visit and enjoy. For its safe beaches, clean water and less than riotous environment, Hua Hin is the perfect base for families, and it’s within easy travelling distance of Bangkok with its museums, canal boat trips and other family-friendly offerings such as Dusit Zoo, the Dream World theme park, Siam Park’s water world and the Samphran Elephant Show and Crocodile Farm. Family cruises can be had everywhere from Krabi and Phuket to the trip along Chiang Mai’s Ping River or along the mighty Mekong River at Chang Saen. Family adventure sports include zip-lining through rainforest treetops, elephant treks through the jungle, a visit to Chiang Mai’s famous Elephant Nature Park or a day in the Golden Triangle touring hill tribe villages.
Sports and Leisure Facilities
Thailand is a hub for leisure activities and sports, with a huge choice of everything from adventure sports, water sports, eco-exploration of remote rural areas and organised activities such as golf, football, and other competitive sports.
If you’re a golf fanatic, Thailand is your dream destination, as the game has a 100-year history here having first been played by the nobility and high society gathered around King Rama V. Nowadays, there are more than 200 world-class courses all over the country, with membership and green fees far lower than in the West.
Along the Andaman seacoast and on Thailand’s beautiful offshore islands there’s every watersport imaginable, although it has to be admitted that surfing is a less extreme occupation than on Bali or Australia’s Gold Coast. Diving and snorkelling along the reefs are favourites, with kayaking, canoeing, wind-surfing, sailing and a host of other activities all provided at the resorts and spa hotels.
Inland are national parks famous for their beauty, flora and fauna and hiking, trekking and walking trials, and history buffs will love daytrips spent exploring centuries-old temples, palaces and archeological sites at Chang Saeng, Sukothai and Ayutthaya as well as in Bangkok. The northern hills above Chiang Mai and beyond Chiang Rai are home to ethnic hill-tribe villages with totally unique traditions, lifestyles and beliefs.
Spectator sports play a huge part in everyday Thai life, with Muay Thai boxing matches one of the most popular ways to spend an evening. Takrow is a unique Thai sport involving hitting a rattan ball with the feet, head, chest and knees, fun to watch and tricky to play, and rugby, basketball, tennis, football and even cricket are becoming popular. Leisure facilities mainly concentrate on bars, pubs and clubs, although Bangkok has a good share of concerts, music events and even a small opera company and an orchestra. Outside the capital, local festivals offer chances to celebrate the Thai way, with Songkran and Loi Krathong the most popular.
