The scenic province of Krabi lies in the south of Thailand on the Andaman seacoast and is much-loved for its sandy beaches, warm waters, dramatic countryside, national parks and dozens of offshore islands. It’s as close to a truly rural Thai destination as is possible, and a small expat community has already discovered its potential.
Overview
Krabi province is one of the most unspoiled of all Thailand’s coastal regions, with Krabi Town its administrative capital and Ao Nang its most-loved and most-developed beach resort. The area was first discovered by backpackers and is now developing into a westernised, more up-market tourism destination. Set on the Andaman Sea, its white sand beaches are overlooked by craggy outcrops and backed by palm trees, and the sea is dotted with long-tail boats. Ao Nang is a good base for exploring the picturesque interior, and living in Krabi is a journey back in time away from endless shopping malls, supermarkets and other modern developments, although a few such including Tesco have now opened in the province.
Population
The total population of Krabi Town is around 24,000, with most of its residents now involved in the tourist industry, and the rapid expansion of Ao Nang has drawn folk from the countryside for the usual economic reasons. The rest of the province with its beachside small towns and rural villages is sparsely populated, and the majority of the population in rural areas follows the Muslim faith. To date, over 1,000 foreigners have made Krabi their home, most of whom are retirees from the West. The Moken sea gypsies still live in their stilted village homes and on their boats although coastal developments are slowly forcing them to either leave or adopt a land-based lifestyle.
History
The history of settlement in the Krabi region is estimated to go back at least three millennia, with archeological sites yielding up beads, utensils and Bronze Age farming tools, and even earlier cave sites with paintings suggesting that occupation began some 25,000 years ago. The distant province remained largely outside the city-state conflicts of Thailand’s late medieval and Middle Ages and, by the 18th century, was under the control of Nakhon Si Thammarat, by then a part of Siam.
In the late 18th century, the Governor of Nakhon Si Thammarat sent Phra Palad, a highly-revered monk, to establish an elephant kraal in Krabi province with the aim of supplying the city with the giant pachyderms. Many of Phra Palad’s followers decided to go with him, and formed large communities in the Pak Lao, Khlong Pon and Pakasai districts. In 1872, King Chulalongkorn elevated the three settlements to town status, thus establishing Krabi town. In 1875, the town’s status was again raised, with its officials having to report directly to Bangkok, a long and dangerous journey in those far–off days.
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, rubber was a major source of income for Krabi, along with agricultural products including mangoes, coconuts and coffee. The turbulent first half of the 20th century largely left the province in peace, and it wasn’t until the first backpacker arrivals in the 1970s/’80s that its potential as a tourist destination began to be realised. Since then, although agriculture is still an important element, tourism has been the province’s main source of income.
Food
Krabi’s rich store of traditional gastronomic delights will please diners for whom the fiery hot dishes of more northern Thai regions are just too much to bear. Curries here are based on coconut milk’s calming influence, allowing all the delicate flavours of the ingredients to stand out. Malaysian culinary influences are strong, presented in dry curries and the delicious massaman curries made with meat, potatoes and nuts. However, for those who love spicy food, the culinary mix also includes eye-watering recipes, and Indonesian and Indian influences are also found.
Seafood is the favourite dish here, freshly caught and carefully prepared in dishes such as stir fries with holy basil, chillies and the Spotted Babylon fish only found in the nearby mangrove forests. Krabi Town is home to one of the best Night Market food courts in the whole of Thailand, serving everything from Khanom chin, a delicious fish curry, to the Krabi take on chicken biriani, khao mok kai. The town also has a selection of international-style eateries.
Transport (airport, trains etc)
Krabi’s small airport lies 10km from Krabi town and 40km from Ao Nang, and serves domestic flights from Bangkok and Koh Samui as well as an international route from Kuala Lumpur. Seasonal charters also run from Scandinavia and Russia. Train services from Bangkok terminate at Surat Thani, with bus or taxi journeys taking over, and long-distance air-conditioned buses run from Bangkok.
Transportation around the province is by songthaew buses, taxi, self-drive along the five main highways or by ferry along the coastline and to the islands.
Weather and climate
Krabi province lies only 8 degrees latitude north of the equator, giving a totally tropical climate with hot-and-dry and cooler-and-wet divisions. The ambient temperature rarely falls below 28-30°C year-round, and the dry season runs between November and April. The wet season, normally between May and October, can be unreliable as monsoon rains may not switch directions, bringing brief heavy rain as late as June, dry weather for two months and rain again until January. In general, the driest, hottest months are March and April and the most rain falls in September and October. Storms here are often spectacular.
International Schools
As of late 2012, there is only one international school in Krabi province. The British International School is based just outside Ao Nang and comprises kindergarten, primary and secondary streams, with years added as current students’ progress. The curriculum is British-based, and teachers are from a number of nationalities. At present, the school has 40 students but is keen on expanding and upgrading. In addition, several Thai schools in Krabi town offer bilingual education to a number of expat children whose parents are willing to supplement by way of home-schooling.
Family Attractions
Outdoor activities involving Krabi’s stunning beaches, boat trips and exploring via elephant treks are all favourite family treats in this dramatically lovely province. Although Krabi is short on massive theme parks, water parks and other such attractions, it’s big on fascinatingly creepy caves, cave temples, glorious sands, warm azure waters and all the watery activities kids love such as snorkelling, kayaking and more. Trips to the offshore islands for a picnic make for a great daytrip, and sea-kayaking and elephant trekking are adventures for children and parents alike.
Sports and Leisure Facilities
Although conventional sports activities aren’t as well-developed as in Bangkok and other Thai cities, there’s enough to keep expats healthy and happy in their new environment. Water sports, hiking, trekking, walking, biking and rock-climbing are at their best in this natural environment, and birders keen on water fowl will be in heaven here. Sailing involves deserted anchorages in tiny bays and gazing at glorious coastal views, and offshore fishing brings tuna, barracuda, marlin and sailfish. For golf fanatics there’s one 18-hole course, with another under construction, and Muay Thai boxing nights are a unique cultural event.