Chiang Mai is an ancient city, once the capital of the Northern Thailand kingdom of Lanna, and is unique in its traditions and culture. Well connected by air, long-distance bus and road with the rest of Thailand and other major cities in neighbouring countries, it’s long been a popular destination for both expats and tourists. Its infrastructure includes excellent hospitals, real estate offices, international schools and one of Thailand’s top universities as well as numerous stores and local shops offering every service from car and motorcycle repair to electrical and house maintenance goods.
Overview
Chiang Mai is a favourite for expats looking for a laid-back life with all modern conveniences and an established, friendly expat community. Events, festivals, a great choice of upscale international and traditional Thai restaurants, buzzing nightlife, traditional markets and ultra-modern malls combined with a wide selection of properties, from luxurious Chiang Mai condos to traditional Thai villas, attract incomers from the US and Europe. The charming, historic old town centre, naturally beautiful surrounding plains and hills and plethora of famous Buddhist temples give plenty to see and do.
Population
Chiang Mai municipality itself is home to almost 200,000 residents, ranging from Lanna Thais through hill tribe groups to at least 30,000 expats. Americans and Britons make up the majority of foreign full and part-time residents, along with migrants from various European countries and Japan. The city is known as one of the most livable in Southeast Asia, and its multi-ethnicity is one of the main attractions for incomers.
The city is surrounded by small villages, set inside the city boundaries but home to rural populations mostly engaged in growing four or more crops of rice a year due to comprehensive irrigation systems. Tourism and expat life gives a living to many Thais in and around the city, and English is spoken well enough to make everyday transactions easy for most foreign residents. Chiang Mai locals are friendly and helpful, although cultural divergences can sometimes result in confusion. Life here goes on in the slow lane, a pleasant change from most expats’ home countries.
History
Chiang Mai began its 700 fascinating years of history with its founding in 1296 by King Mengrai as the capital of his Lanna kingdom, following the warrior king’s move from Chiang Saen on the banks of the Mekong River. After conquering Haripunchai some 60 kms away, Mengrai selected the area for his capital due to the Ping River’s fertile valley and its protective mountain ranges. Surrounded by powerful Burma, the dying Khmer Empire at Angkor, Ayutthaya and upcoming southern Siam, Mengrai’s kingdom encompassed the Himalayan range’s far foothills and their vast, fertile river valleys and was the hub of a key trade route linking Yunnan in Southern China to the Burmese seaports.
Fully established by the mid-15th century, Lanna successfully defended its territory from Siamese attacks and became a highly-respected centre of Theravada Buddhism. One of its most revered, still-active temples, Wat Jed Yot, was built especially for the Seventh World Buddhist Conference in 1477, and still holds the seven stupas erected to commemorate the event. Bangkok’s famous Emerald Buddha was originally held at 14th century Wat Phra Singh in the old city, and Wat Chedi Luang holds the sacred pillar of the city, its spiritual heart.
As with most Southeast Asian capitals, early Chiang Mai was home to monks, the Royal family and the nobility, with its citizens living in surrounding villages.
In the second half of the 15th century, Lanna found itself under threat from powerful Ayutthaya as well as from a Laotian city state. Both attacks were repelled, with Lanna armies reaching as far as the gates of Ayutthaya in 1460, but forced to withdraw to defend Chiang Mai against an attack from Yunnan China. Regional wars continued, and the thus-weakened kingdom fell to the Burmese in 1556 and was almost totally destroyed. Briefly re-established between 1727 and 1763, the city was again taken by the Burmese and became deserted.
In 1774, the 200-year Burmese incursion was finally ended by King Taksin of Thonburi (now Bangkok), and repopulated Chiang Mai became a first line of defence protecting Siam to the south. The monumental, moated city walls were reconstructed and trade resumed with China and Siam. Western traders and missionaries arrived in the mid 19th century during the reign of King Chulalongkorn, and fought respectively for Christian converts and land rights, causing a rift between the monarchy and the Lanna king. Comparatively impoverished Lanna was a lawless frontier town, with the British interests in the rubber trade continually pressuring Chulalongkorn for compensation.
After the 1932 bloodless revolution in Siam and the establishment of a constitutional monarchy, Chiang Mai was reluctantly incorporated into Thailand, becoming a province with its former Royal family answerable to Bangkok. During WWII, Thailand allowed the Japanese army access to the country, and many Chiang Mai residents were conscripted to build roads across the region’s remote, inhospitable mountain terrain. Many died as a result, and Thailand lost its innocence. Lanna, however, has retained to this day its unique culture and its peoples’ pride in its long history.
Food
Northern Thai cuisine is a history lesson in itself, due to the varied ethnicities of its population and its time under the Burmese occupation. Chinese, Burmese, Cambodian and even Indian influences are found, making the gastronomy of the region one of the most exciting and distinctive in Asia. Chiang Mai’s cooler, mountain-influenced weather also plays a part in its cuisine, as there’s a greater variety of fresh, seasonal foods available. However, apart from river and lake fish, most seafood has to be imported from more southern climes.
Unique to Lanna is glutinous rice, served as a main dish with a spicy dip or with curry, deep-fried meats or spicy sausage slices. Its favourite form, however, is in the delicious dessert comprising fresh, fragrant mango slices and sticky rice smothered in coconut cream. Soy sauce, fish sauce and ginger as well as the ‘holy basil’ herb are much used, and the ubiquitous Khao Soy – egg noodles with coconut milk curry, meat, shallots, deep-fried noodles and pickled cabbage – is found everywhere from street stalls to upscale eateries. Another favourite is massaman curry, originating from as far away as Persia, a delicious combination of stewed pork and potatoes in a rich sauce.
Transport (airport, trains etc)
Chiang Mai International Airport is the main arrivals hub for international travellers, either via domestic flights from Bangkok or overseas flights from China, Malaysia and other Asian destinations. Ground transportation to the centre of town is by registered taxi, tuk-tuk or songthaew bus. Chiang Mai has a rail station with regular overnight trains to Bangkok but, as there’s only a single track as far as Lampang, journeys are long although sleepers can be booked.
The long-distance bus service is comprehensive and comfortable, providing extensive domestic routes as well as routes to the Cambodian, Burmese and Laotian borders, and a luxury overnight bus runs to Bangkok. Travel within the city is by tuk-tuk or the songthaew buses which run to specific destinations in and outside the city, and a registered taxi service is available. The old town is walk-able and, for self-drive, there’s a useful network of ring roads linking the most popular areas of the city with the suburbs, surrounding rural areas and outlying housing developments.
Weather and climate
In general, Chiang Mai’s weather is cooler than that of the rest of Thailand, especially at higher elevations in the winter months of December through February. The climate is divided into two basic seasons, the rainy season between the end of April to mid-November and the dry season during the winter months. Between cool December and the end of even cooler February very little, if any, rain falls, but March and most of April normally see the highest temperatures of the year and a few violent thunderstorms.
At this time, daytime highs of around 40-43°C combined with high humidity can feel very uncomfortable, with nighttime lows reaching 85°C or more. The first few weeks of the rainy season see heavy monsoon rains and storms, often resulting in temporary power cuts and some flooding close to the Ping River as well as taking temperatures down to a bearable level. Evening storms and rainfall continue across the season, but days are often clear and bright.
International Schools
Chiang Mai offers a choice of international schools giving the option of either American or British-based education, although there’s a dearth of educational institutes offering the International Baccalaureate curriculum. Offerings include Prem Tinsulandonda International School, American Pacific, Lanna International, Varee International, Grace International, Nakornpayap International and the oldest, Chiang Mai International School. Class sizes tend towards the high, as do fees and extras, and all have an English curriculum. Grace International and Chiang Mai International are Christian-based, and Prem features the International Baccalaureate.
Family Attractions
As a major tourist destination, Chiang Mai has its fair share of family attractions, although it’s not generally known as a family holiday hub as it has no beach. Great days out can be had at Chiang Mai Zoo with its giant pandas and massive aquarium, and the Night Safari lets visitors get up close but not too personal with a variety of wild life. A number of elephant parks are found close by the city, giving rides and elephant shows and, for eco-day trippers, the Elephant Nature Park rescues elephants in distress and give them a wild and wonderful place to roam free. Visitors can feed, bath and spend time with the giant pachyderms in a totally natural habitat. The Night Market and Sunday Walking Street are fun for families, and the huge reservoir along the Canal Road allows swimming and overnight stays in floating houseboats.
Sports and Leisure Facilities
Chiang Mai is well-known for its golf courses, with many part-time residents arriving for several months-worth of uninterrupted, reasonably-priced days on the greens. The city is surrounded with magnificent natural beauty, giving opportunities for trekking, hiking, cycling and exploring vast expanses of rainforest dotted with waterfalls, lakes and unspoiled vistas. Thailand’s highest mountain, Doi Inthanon, makes for great daytrips and is famous for its orchids as well as its spectacular views and mid-winter frosts. Nearby hill-tribe villages are fascinating to visit and the infamous Golden Triangle along the Burmese border or ancient Chiang Saen set on the mighty Mekong are easily visited on a day out from the city. For a unique evening experience, try a classic Muang Thai boxing event.